An evening of pairing sake and a variety of foods

Sake is a world-class beverage that has grown out of Japan’s climate, lifestyle, culture and history. To spread the appeal and enjoyment of pairing sake with a wide range of foods overseas, the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association hosted the “Special Japanese Sake and Food Pairing Program” at the Hotel New Otani Tokyo on Oct. 16.

The participants included ambassadors, diplomats and staff members from embassies of 40 countries in Japan, as well as experts capable of disseminating information to their home countries, including those from foreign chambers of commerce and industry, economic organizations and media. The sake-pairing dinner began with an opening address by Naotaka Miyasaka, chairman of the the association’s overseas sake promotion committee, as everyone enjoyed the welcome drink, Masumi Sparkling Origarami Junmai Ginjo, in a friendly atmosphere.

Next, ambassadors from nine countries broke open three sake casks lined up on the stage in a traditional ceremony of kagami biraki. The ambassadors, each wearing a traditional happi coat, hammered the wooden lids with mallets, responding to three calls of “Yoisho!” followed by a loud cheer from the participants. In that instant, [INE] Denshin Junmai, the first of the event’s featured sakes, was poured into glasses of participants. It was paired with nine elaborately prepared Japanese-style appetizers, including ball-shaped salmon temari-zushi, dressed shellfish and vegetables and grilled Spanish mackerel seasoned with Saikyo miso. [INE] Denshin Junmai, which has a gentle, smooth flavor, doubles the deliciousness of these appetizers in a magic of pairing. This was a fitting first combination to impress the participants with how well sake and food go together.

Maksim Polkin, a sake educator certified by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, lectured on the event’s five-course meal and the five brands of featured sake that went with them. In addition to key points of pairing sake with food, Polkin discussed everything from the history of sake and how it is made — including rice-polishing ratios and kōji mold — to the differences between sake and wine, all in an easy-to-understand manner for sake beginners.

The featured sake that was served second was Hanagaki Junmai Nigori. Surprisingly, it was paired with tom yam kung, a Thai soup. Polkin explained how sake’s low acidity allows it to be paired with a wide range of dishes and how nigori sake goes well with spicy dishes. The combination of the sour, spicy soup and sake offered a novel taste that the participants enjoyed.

The third featured sake was Shinsei Junmai Daiginjo Matsuno Midori. Going with it was acqua pazza richly flavored with asari clams and mussels. Sake and seafood are an undisputed great combination. Polkin explained this is because of the enhanced umami resulting from combining sake’s glutamic acid and seafood’s inosinic acid, to which many nodded in agreement.

Served with the fourth featured sake, Komagura Gen Enjuku Junmai Ginjo, was roasted beef medallions with a Spanish sauce. Komagura, which has been aged to enhance its umami, brings out the umami of beef. It also went well with the spicy romesco sauce. Served finally was a dessert of Kyoho and Shine Muscat grapes and milk gelato. Sake definitely goes well with sweets. Paired with this dessert was Kasegi Gashira Junmai. The fruity and refreshing acidity of this sake pleasantly washes the sweetness remaining on the tongue.

The day’s dishes, prepared using a wide range of ingredients and cooking methods, offered all five basic tastes of sweetness, saltiness, sourness, bitterness and umami, as well as spicy and astringent flavors. The sake brands remarkably harmonized with them and enhanced their flavors. It proved to be an evening that convinced participants sake has the flexibility for enjoyment with any flavor of food.