The cool, smooth touch of century-old wood This summer, experience life in a kominka

Traveling across Japan, wooden houses with tiled roofs are a regular sight. Today these traditional houses, known as kominka, are enjoying a resurgence in popularity. There is no clear definition of a kominka, but most houses that receive the appellation are of wooden construction and between one and two centuries old. The main appeal of kominka is the natural timber used for floors, ceilings, support pillars and other parts of the house. After long decades of use, this timber takes on a deep, warm patina.

Kominka are generally designed to ensure good ventilation, important in a country as humid as Japan. The space inside the house is partitioned by thin paper screens, with little clear demarcation even between interior and exterior. Corridors known as engawa open directly onto gardens, forming a mild buffer between interior and exterior that gives the space a mysterious depth. Sitting in an engawa and listening to the birds and insects outside, one understands how these houses were conceived of as part of nature itself.

Opportunities to experience life in a kominka through temporary stays are increasingly prevalent. Old buildings are renovated in accordance with contemporary style and made available as accommodations. Some are divided into individual suites, while others are offered as a whole. Renovating and continuing to use old buildings instead of constructing new ones is truly sustainable. And unlike hotels and ryokan inns, renovated kominka can give travelers an experience almost like living in a real traditional house. Here, we introduce three accommodation facilities housed in renovated kominka, each one offering a unique encounter with a structure shaped by the local climate and history.

Setoda is a small town on Ikuchi Island in the Setouchi Inland Sea. Administratively it is part of the city of Onomichi, Hiroshima, one end of the Shimanami Kaido bridge connecting Honshu to Shikoku. Rich in natural beauty and resources, Setoda prospered as a center for salt-making and fishing, with the local Horiuchi family rising to prominence as wealthy merchant traders in the 17th century. Azumi Setoda, which opened in March this year, lets visitors experience a stay in the former Horiuchi residence, fully renovated for modern comfort. The original building was constructed in 1876, with no expense spared on gathering the finest materials and most skilled artisans from across the country. The restoration was overseen by architect Shiro Miura, a specialist in the traditional sukiya-zukuri style of architecture. Miura’s work has created a contemporary space for today’s visitors that incorporates key elements of the original design, such as the wooden pillars and shoji partitions. There are multiple inner gardens on the grounds, and the positions of the trees and rocks in each are carefully calculated to ensure that guest rooms and corridors facing the gardens always enjoy light filtered through leaves. Combined with the brisk breeze off the Setouchi Inland Sea, this offers guests a fully immersive experience.

日本各地を旅すれば、そこかしこに木造で瓦屋根という家を見つけることができる。これらは「古民家」と呼ばれ、近年人気を集めている。古民家における明確な定義はないが、主に100～200年前に建てられた木造の家のことを指す場合が多い。
古民家の魅力は、第一に天井や床、柱など家の随所に天然の木が使われていることだ。長い年月を経た木の風合いは味わい深く、おだやかな温もりに包まれる。また高温多湿の日本では通気性を良くするため、仕切りは薄い障子紙で区切られ、庭や外の空間との隔たりが少ないのも特徴だ。特に「縁側」と呼ばれる庭に面した廊下は、室内と屋外をつなぐゆるやかな境界であり、この場所が空間に不思議な奥行きをもたらしてくれる。
そんな古民家の暮らしを体感できる宿が続々と増えている。新しく建物を建てるのではなく、古い建物を改装して使い続けることは実にサスティナブルだ。そして従来の旅館やホテルとも異なり、その家に暮らすかのような体験が可能になっている。

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