September 09, 2024
Hokkaido’s terroir crafts Japan’s next great wines
Hokkaido is emerging as a significant player in Japan’s wine industry, holding the third-largest share in the production of wine from domestic grapes, following Yamanashi and Nagano prefectures. Its distinctive climate, unique terroir (environmental factors like soil, sunlight and climate) and passionate vintners are captivating wine enthusiasts worldwide.
Recognized for its distinctive cool climate, the region plays a crucial role in Japan’s wine production landscape. Hokkaido is the only region in Japan classified in the widely used Winkler Index as Region I, whose growing seasons are the coolest of the index’s five zones, aligning it with renowned cool-climate wine regions such as Champagne in France as well as parts of Germany and Austria.
Unlike Honshu, Hokkaido’s climate is characterized by low rainfall and a high percentage of sunny days, which is ideal for grape cultivation and contributes to the unique qualities of Hokkaido wines. Ryota Koyama, director of Imadeya Corp., a company headquartered in Chiba that operates stores with curated alcoholic beverages at locations including Ginza Six in Tokyo, noted: “Grapes harvested in Hokkaido are simply exquisite. One of the key factors contributing to this quality is the low incidence of mold, which is typically a major cause of grape diseases.”
Hokkaido grapes undergo a distinctive growth process that sets them apart from other regions. As grapes ripen in typical wine-growing areas, their sugar content increases while their acidity drops rapidly. Hokkaido, however, benefits from unique climatic conditions that allow for a more balanced development. Here, the grapes’ acidity declines slowly even as sugar levels rise. This favorable characteristic enables vintners to delay harvest until both sugar and acidity reach optimal levels. Consequently, Hokkaido wines showcase a rich depth of flavor, striking an appealing balance between luscious sweetness and refreshing acidity.
Hokkaido’s favorable cool environment also allows for the cultivation of grapes with minimal or reduced pesticide use, contributing to its growing reputation for the production of more natural wines. The cool climate, characterized by low humidity, helps reduce the incidence of pests and diseases, making it easier for vintners to adopt organic practices. This climate is likely a contributing factor to the increasing number of producers in Hokkaido who are focusing on a more natural wine production cycle, as they can grow high-quality grapes while minimizing chemical interventions.
Currently, Hokkaido is home to 66 wineries, with the town of Yoichi standing out as one of its most renowned wine-producing areas. This area, along with the Hakodate and Mikasa areas, is known for its unique small wineries that produce distinctive wines highly popular among Japanese enthusiasts. The wine-growing regions in Hokkaido are expanding, including areas like Furano and Asahikawa, contributing to the diversity that is one of the major attractions of Hokkaido wine.
Hokkaido is actively embracing wine tourism and promoting the industry. This initiative involves people visiting local vineyards, experiencing the winemaking process and engaging with producers while immersing themselves in local climate, culture and history. This form of tourism has become a vital component of the local economy in many renowned wine-producing regions around the world.
Yoichi, in particular, is at the forefront of promoting wine tourism through events like winery open days, when wineries that are normally closed welcome the public. These events provide both wine enthusiasts and general tourists with a chance to experience the local wine culture firsthand. Hokkaido’s wine tourism offers a unique blend of the region’s rich natural beauty, food culture and winemaking traditions, and it is expected to continue developing in the future.
Given Hokkaido’s distinctive climate and terroir, its passionate vintners and the allure of its diverse regions, international recognition for Hokkaido’s wine industry seems imminent. Discovering the charms of Hokkaido wine, witnessing its evolution and savoring the nuances in its flavors will engage a new generation of wine enthusiasts. This exploration promises to be a novel pleasure for wine connoisseurs worldwide. This burgeoning wine region is undoubtedly opening an exciting new chapter in the story of Japanese wines.
