March 28, 2025
Ebitei-Bekkan
Contributing writer
Toyama restaurant keeps traditions fresh
Toyama, home to the restaurant Ebitei-Bekkan, is the capital of Toyama Prefecture, facing Toyama Bay to the north and the Tateyama range to the east in the Northern Japan Alps. As a government-designated “environmental model city,” it is currently aiming for a “compact city” urban design. Historically, the area flourished as a castle town and had devoted followers of the Jodo Shinshu (True Pure Land) school of Buddhism.
Ebitei-Bekkan’s predecessor, Ebitei, was a traditional restaurant that opened in 1911. Its fourth-generation owner-chef, Kentaro Mura, trained at the restaurant Aoyagi in Tokushima Prefecture before taking over the family business in 2004 following the death of his father. Mura remodeled the restaurant in 2009 and changed its menu. Business flourished after a famous guidebook bestowed a high rating and the opening of the Hokuriku Shinkansen train line brought more visitors to Toyama. In 2018, however, Mura closed its doors.
“It was time to rebuild the restaurant, since the structure was deteriorating with age and our financial outlook was good,” Mura said. Starting afresh at the age of 40, he headed to Tokyo and worked at a highly regarded Japanese restaurant.
Renewed in 2022, the atmosphere of Ebitei-Bekkan is modern and the course menu, starting at ¥27,500 ($180) including tax, is served at a counter and in private rooms. The ingredients used are from Toyama Prefecture and other areas of the Hokuriku region. In spring, there are Japanese glass shrimp, cherry salmon and firefly squid. The winter menu includes crab as well as bear or boar meat. The generous use of superb antique dishes handed down over generations is a luxury unique to the venerable establishment. Incorporating fresh ideas while preserving tradition is an approach that matches the character of Toyama.
Address
Ebitei-Bekkan
2-4-10 Yasunoya-cho, Toyama-shi, Toyama Prefecture
https://ebitei-bekkan.com//
Hachiro Nitta
Governor of Toyama
I would like to extend my heartfelt congratulations to Ebitei-Bekkan. Toyama Prefecture is blessed with a rich and beautiful natural environment, featuring an impressive 4,000-meter elevation difference from the Tateyama mountain range to Toyama Bay. It is truly a treasure trove of fresh seafood, local produce and mountain delicacies. At Ebitei-Bekkan, guests can experience the essence of Toyama’s renowned bounty through exquisite cuisine. I warmly invite you to visit Toyama Prefecture and immerse yourself in its culinary delights and diverse attractions.
Hirohisa Fujii
Mayor of Toyama
I am truly delighted that Ebitei-Bekkan has been selected for The Japan Times’ Destination Restaurants 2024. Toyama city is nestled between the majestic Tateyama mountain range and Toyama Bay — often referred to as a “natural fish tank.” In this exceptional environment, local ingredients are transformed into exquisite dishes through the refined, meticulous craftsmanship of fourth-generation owner Mr. Kentaro Mura. We invite you to savor these culinary masterpieces at a leisurely pace, immersing yourself in an unforgettable dining experience.
